SabakaSling

In working with nylon webbing, it's handy to have a reference as to how your finished work should look. In all probability, your dog's leash or collar is made of this material, and it will serve this function just fine.

Nylon webbing can be easily cut with a pair of strong scissors. Once it has been cut, however, the ends must be fused together to prevent fraying and unraveling. This is easily accomplished by using an open flame to just barely melt the very tips of the cut nylon fibers. Extreme care must be taken when doing this! As with any project involving open flame, it must not be undertaken by unsupervised children. Even responsible adults should use caution to avoid accidental setting of fires or burning of exposed skin. At no time should the nylon webbing be allowed to catch fire -- this operation is intended to barely melt, not incinerate the material! -- as poisonous combustion gasses will be produced. The fusing operation should only be performed outdoors, in an area of minimal wildfire risk. If the material does catch fire, fiery droplets of molten nylon will drip from the webbing, setting fire to anything that they fall on or severely burning exposed skin! It is desirable to have a fire extinguisher on hand. Try to avoid using matches or candles as a flame source, a propane torch or cigarette lighter will produce superior results. A well-fused strap will show no signs of discoloration or burning on the ends, just like your dog's leash.

An alternate, if somewhat inferior, method is to use waterproof glue to fuse together the nylon fibers. This is the preferred method for supervised children as well as anyone who does not want to use the open-flame method. Remember, "super glue" bonds skin instantly!

Nylon webbing is a very stout and stiff material, it's thickness can make it hard to sew. Whether one decides to use a sewing machine or a needle and thread, the materials and methods used must fit the job at hand. The thread should be heavy weight -- any thread advertised as intended for "carpet" or "upholstery" use is acceptable. Waxed dental floss also works well with hand needles. Hand needles need to be strongly made, with eye dimensions that will allow easy insertion of the thick thread, and a shaft that will resist bending or breaking under stress. A pair of pliers, or at least a thimble, might be necessary to sew multiple layers of webbing. Use caution.

Those familiar enough with machine sewing to consider its use on this project, are more knowledgeable on this subject than I, so I will offer no advise to them other than to point out that the risks of damaging their sewing machine with this thick material must be carefully considered.

The method used to stitch together the webbing need not be elaborate. While geometric stitching patterns might look nice, especially when a contrasting color thread is used, they are not necessary. Simply chain-stitching the two parallel edges together for an inch or so on each side is sufficiently strong for the largest dogs. Because nylon is such a slippery material, gluing the straps together, in lieu of stitching, is not recommended.

Attaching the buckles and fittings to the straps depends on what specific types you have chosen. Trial and error will bring quick results, or simply check the rigging of fittings on other items you might own.

Cut the jacket lining or sweatshirt material into rectangular strips 4 inches wide by 18-1/2 inches long. The finished size when sewn together will be 1- 3/4 inches by 18 inches, the extra material is for a 1/4 inch seam allowance along all edges. Since you will probably want the "fuzzy" side to be the exterior of the finished sling cover, start by folding the ends over by 1/4 inch, plain sides together, on each end. Stitch the end seams rather loosely, this material is very elastic in all directions and excessively tight stitches would break due to insufficient slack when stress is applied. Next fold the piece in half lengthwise, fuzzy sides together. Without folding back the edges. loosely chain stitch the layers together 1/4 inch in from the edges. This process is known as serging. It's fine if the waste side of the 1/4 inch seam allowance gets slightly compressed, so the edge doesn't look straight. For appearance's sake the stitch line itself should be carefully maintained 1/4 inch in from the unfinished edges. It might be necessary to use pins to maintain alignment of the edges while you sew. When finished, reverse the sides by turning the finished piece inside-out (i.e.. - fuzzy side out). Check for nominal elasticity and iron if desired.

PVC pipe can be cut with almost any type of saw, or a hand clipper made especially for this purpose. I prefer to use a metal-cutting hack saw. When cut, take a few seconds to carefully remove the sharp, rough edges of the cut ends with a file or sandpaper. The ink markings on the outside of the pipe can be removed, if desired, with rubbing alcohol. Remember the old adage: Measure twice, cut once!